Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Another Mother: Sour Dough Starter

Living in my refrigerator is a creature named Lilith.  She is a mature and ever growing sour dough starter, or as my sous chef calls her, a mother.  I feel this name is apt as she has quite a bite, can be hard to handle, and I have killed and revived her before.

I created my first starter, which eventually died due to inattention, in early 2011 when the Vegetarian Times did a big piece about quick sour dough.  Through that process I learned a couple of things.  First, an immature starter brings chew to the bread, but it doesn't help much with the flavor.  Second, making and keeping a mature starter takes some work and attention, but it is doable.

My current starter was built from the basic recipe that the VT uses, but I have tweaked it through a few failures.  I did make one starter that went rancid shortly after inception through inattention in the initial phases, so make sure you're not going to be gone or on a extremely busy schedule when building your mother.  Also, their recipe will flood out your starter with excess water, so I have cut that back.

An Ode to a Jar

Before you begin, ensure that you have a container large enough to house a mature starter.  It should be at least 2 times the size of your starter, so it should hold no less than 6 cups.  My jar is much like one of these, but can be whatever brand you like.   As you can see in the picture below, we made holes in the top of the jar; this serves two purposes.  First, it allows for fresh air to enter the jar, which is one way your starter will pick up native yeast.  Second, it allows for some of the condensation to escape.  As I store Lilith in the fridge most of the time, she condenses I get her out to bake, and this limits the condensation.

I have tried to keep starters in plastic, and it is doable.  The down side is that plastic containers can pick up flavors.  Therefore, I have found glass is the best long term solution.  If you are especially clumsy, it might be best to use plastic to prevent breakage, but make sure you buy a new container before beginning.



Sour Dough Starter

Initial Ingredients
1/4 tsp yeast
1 cup flour
3/4 cup water

Feeding(s) Ingredients
3/4 cup flour
2/3 cup water

On the first day, mix together the initial ingredients in your container using a whisk.  Whisking the starter together introduces air that will carry native yeast.  This will be the method you want to use with all feedings down the road.  Place the lid on the container and put it in a median temperature area in your kitchen, so that the yeast can start working.

After the mixture sits for 12 hours, add the feeding ingredients.  Stir in with a whisk, replace the lid, and place back in the median temperature area.

After another 12 hours, stir the starter together and remove 1 1/4 cups of starter to discard.  When your starter is ready to bake, you will use this to make bread products, but for now, throw it out or add it to your compost.  Add the feeding ingredients, whisk to combine, and replace lid.

Remove and feed starter every 12 hours two more times.  Then allow starter to sit for 24 hour, and remove and feed again.  At this point, you should have created a starter that has some tang coming to it.  After the 24 hour feeding, you can allow your starter to sit for another 24 hours and then bake with it, or you can place it in the fridge for storage.  I usually bake something with it, so I can see how the taste is progressing, but I am also impatient.

Once your starter has moved to the fridge, you will need to feed it at least every 7 days.  If you are going to bake with it two days in a row, leave the starter on the counter overnight before baking with it the second day.  If you want to bake two items in one day, do not remove a portion before feeding and feed it the normal amount.  Once you have made the two items, feed it just like normal and return it to the fridge.

If you notice a lot water standing on the top, pour it off before whisking it and reduce the water when you feed it.  Also, if it is starting to get dry or has lumps, mix in 1 to 2 tablespoons of water before baking with or feeding it.  If it is drying on a recurring basis, up the amount of water used in feedings, as your environment may be dry.

It's Time to BAKE!

Over the next few weeks, I will be sharing my own sour dough recipes.  If you happen to have a starter ready to go, King Arthur Flour has great recipes including this one for sourdough bread.  If you happen to have any recipes that call for making sponges, you can substitute your starter in a ration of 3/4 starter to 1/4 fresh flour.

I have developed recipes, including pancakes, but if you have ones you would like to see, let me know and I will put Lilith to work.

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